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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.